Archive for the ‘Soap Making’ Category

Making Soap

Monday, August 23rd, 2010

Be sure to read the post on Soap Safety as well.

In 2004, I came across a website talking about making your own soap. It wasnt even the main point of the article. They had just mentioned soap in passing. But it caught my attention. I thought it sounded like fun. So after some research, I attempted my first batch of soap. It didnt turn out well. So, I learned how to rebatch it. And although it came out as probably the world’s ugliest bars of soap, but I had successfully made soap, and I was hooked.

Since then, I’ve learned a lot. A lot of my research has gone into learning how to design my own recipes. Although I’ve never had a recipe completely fail, I have had problems such as minimal lather, or a really strong soap that dried your skin out. This was one of my first successes. In fact, I still use this recipe on occasion.

16.8oz olive oil

19.2oz lard

5.75oz corn oil

6.25oz coconut oil

6.5oz NaOH (lye)

13oz water

ground rose

1/3 cup honey

Choose an area that you are not likely to be interrupted and is away from pets and children. Since it was late when I made soap tonight, I figured the kitchen was as safe as anywhere. When I make soap during the day, I like to use my entryway with the baby gate up so I am completely out of the way.

Measure out your lye and your water and carefully and slowly pour the lye into the water while stirring. Never do this part the other way around, it could cause a volcano. It is best to do this in a well ventilated area as the fumes can be very irritating.

dscn2252

The mixture will also get very hot (over 200 degrees Fahrenheit). Set it aside to allow it to cool. While the lye water is cooling, measure out and heat up your oils.

dscn2253

You will want the lye and the oils to both be about 100 degrees Fahrenheit.

While you are waiting, this is a good time to prepare your molds. For molds, you can use anything from a shoe box lined with wax paper, to the more expensive soap molds. To prepare the molds, I rub them down with some oil.

Once you are at your desired temperature, slowly add the lye water to the oils and stir.

dscn2254

I always first pour my oils into a separate container first. Next start stirring. If you are stirring by hand, you have to stir fairly vigorously. You can also employ the use of an immersion blender.

dscn2255 (Modified in GIMP Image Editor)

Continue stirring until you start to get a trace. A trace occurs when you dribble a little bit of the soap mixture on top of the rest and it sits on top before being absorbed back into the mixture. You have to look carefully, but in the picture there is a ring in the soap next to the blender

dscn2256

At this point, you can add in the honey and the ground rose. Mix the honey and rose in well, and check the trace again.

dscn2257

Now you are ready to pour into the molds. I already had the soap in the decorative molds, so what was left I put in my shoebox mold.

dscn2258

Be sure to tap your molds to get all the air bubbles out. Then cover your molds and put them someplace they wont get disturbed.

dscn2259

Leave them there for 24 hours.

All of the dishes you used can be washed in hot soapy water. I usually wash the lye bowl in running water…just in case

Soap Safety

Monday, August 23rd, 2010

One of my hobbies is making soap. Making soap is just a chemical reaction. You take lye (NaOH or KOH, NaOH is more common) mix it with a liquid, such as water, milk, tea, etc. Then mix a fat in and stir, and after it’s cured, you have soap.

The most important thing to remember about soap making is that lye is highly caustic. Also, since it is very basic (pH of 13) when it is mixed with the liquid, it can cause irritating fumes and get very hot. So your safety equipment should include long sleeves, pants, closed shoes, a mask, gloves, and goggles. I also like to keep a gallon of vinegar close by to neutralize any spills.

You will also need a bowl, and spoon to use exclusively for soap. I use a sturdy plastic bowl and wooden spoon. I have read that some people use Pyrex. You should not use metal, especially aluminum or tin since lye can eat though it. Nor should you use regular glass since the sudden heat changes could cause it to shatter.

Homemade Laundry Detergent

Tuesday, August 10th, 2010

I am really big into using natural cleaners and as few weird chemicals as possible. I wholeheartedly believe that it is healthier for my family, and a lot of times, it’s easier on my budget as well. :)

Yesterday, I made laundry soap. It’s actually quiet easy. All you need is 4 ingredients. Fels Napa or Zote Soap, Washing Soda and Borax. I used Zote for a while, but I can no longer find it. So, I’ve been using Fels Napa. I think I might like the Fels Napa a little better.

Anyway, grate 1/2 bar of your chosen soap into a medium to large pot.

grated soap

Add water, and heat on the stove to melt the soap.  The bubbles are from adding water.  Do not let it boil.  Then you have bubbles everywhere.

melting soap

Here’s what it should look like after it’s all melted.

melted soap

The add 3/4 cup each of Washing Soda and Borax.

laundry soap supplies

Heat and stir until it’s all dissolved.  I have found it helpful to add one, stir, and then add the other.  It does not seem to matter which order you add them in.

Then, dump your mixture in a 2 gallon bucket.

soap bucket

And fill your bucket up with water.  It’s actually better to not get as many bubbles as I did when filling up your bucket.   But, being pregnant, I was having trouble lifting it out of the sink.  So I’ve been using the sink sprayer hose, and that makes quite a bit more bubbles.

laundry soap

I use 1/2 cup per load.   2 gallons will give you about 64 loads.

One thing to note.  This does make a very low sudsing detergent.  It will still get your clothes clean.  The bubbles aren’t what get them clean.   The soap being in the water does.  When you are used to using normal detergent, it’s a little worrying to not see any bubbles when you do your first few loads.